Wall is fixed! (plus lots o’ handy painting tips)

I’m a worrier… I really am.   But mostly about the unknown.   The Unknown.  AKA: the most pointless thing to worry about.   All my life I’ve tried to instill the ole “Don’t stress until there’s a reason to stress” thing, and it works in some instances.  Honestly, there’s no rhyme or reason to it… Big things, I have no problem with.   Minor things… Stress city.  And for whatever reason, when it comes to our home and possible expenses, I fail EVERY TIME in my efforts to not think about it.   If I’m aware of a problem but don’t know the extent of it, my imagination runs wild and I inevitably envision the most dire scenario.   I DREAM about it.   Drive my saint of a husband mad about it.   But the funny thing is that once I know the issue, even if it’s really bad, it’s like flipping a switch and I’m totally fine.   It’s like once I know, I’m golden.   Once a plan is in place I’m alright.  I. Just. Have. To. Know.

And that’s how our wood rot issue was for me.  Remember when I discussed that our exterior back wall was rotting here in this post?  Well, once we discovered it, I was literally dreaming about the wall crashing down.  Dramatic?  Yes.  Unfounded? Quite.  But I couldn’t help it.  We immediately started calling contractors to see about getting estimates.  We called four who were recommended by friends.  Unfortunately, with all of the recent rain everybody had a lot going on…

One never called back.

One said he would come take a look but never did.

One told us that the rot was BAD and it was way beyond his skill set, thus, he wouldn’t fix it.

One told us the complete opposite… That it was minor rot and he wouldn’t go through the effort of fixing it (even though he never took a close look at the extent of it).  We suspect that he was just really busy and didn’t want to do the job.

After that guy, we removed more trim and discovered that the main supports of the wall were resting on that rotted plate board.  So, yes.  It needed to be fixed.  And we were really frustrated that nobody seemed to wanna help us.  At this point it had been about 3 weeks of trying to get somebody out to assess the problem to no avail.

Then, one morning, my dad’s friend called me and said that he knew a framer who was really good.   We called him and within an hour he was at our house to give us an estimate.    On a SATURDAY.  Not only was his estimate lower than expected, he didn’t seem concerned about our picture window (ie: my main worry and the whole reason we weren’t DIYing this to begin with).   In fact, he doubted he’d have to remove it to fix the issue.   He told us that he’d come with his crew the following week to remove our siding to give us a more exact quote and to fully assess the damage.  Then, he could either fix it right then and there or if it was too expensive, he’d just reattach the siding and leave.

We were in.

A week later, he and his crew arrived.   They removed the bottom of the siding and discovered that the damage was only the bottom plate board and the very bottom of two studs…

  
He finalized the quote at that point and it ended up being $500 LESS than the original quote. So basically, equivalent to our deductible had we chosen to go through insurance (which we didn’t).  And it included fixing the wall with treated wood and installing Hardee siding and trim on all siding areas along the back of our house.  Plus, he ensured us that it would look exactly the same to maintain the character of the house.    Obviously, we gave the okay.

Once they got going, things got a little nerve-wracking when we discovered that our window was actually not a legit window.  It was a huge piece of dual paned tempered glass that had been framed in.   And once they removed the trim we saw that hardly anything was holding it In place.   Our framer suspected that it was a DIY job based on what he saw.


He braced it in with a few pieces of scrap lumber and set about fixing the wall in sections.  I didn’t take a ton of pics during the process, because, well… I felt weird taking pictures of random men working.   I did manage get one, though, to give you a bit of a before/after gist of the inner workings of our wall…

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Check out that gorgeous, firm plate board.  Oh, yeeeeah.  Once they were done, it looked like this…

 

 Pretty much the same, right?? Just with way better materials that won’t soak up moisture.

The entire job took them about 7 hours from start to finish.   They were punctual, courteous, and hard-working.   All-in-all, we’re pretty satisfied.

So, once the hard labor was complete, it was up to me to finish sealing and painting.   I began by caulking every single seam and nail hole.   I knew I’d be priming since there were many color undertones in the materials on the wall and I didn’t want them peeking through my paint, so I just used whatever colored caulking I had on hand.   I just made sure of two very important things…

1. That my caulk had silicone in it to keep the caulk from shrinking and cracking.

2. That it was paintable.

Once the wall was caulked, it looked like this…

It’s amazing how something as simple as caulk goes such a long way to making a project looked finished.  I was sure to use clear caulking around the window to make it less obvious and this was the only area that I used this foolproof caulking method to ensure clean, crisp lines.   It works every time.

The next day, I set about priming.   And I’m not gonna lie… The process was a beating.   Now, I need you to understand that this is a GIANT statement coming from a paint-loving gal like myself (who regularly offers to paint my friends houses FOR FUN).  Ya see, I decided to prime immediately after I’d returned from a long jog.  And it was hot out.   And I’ll tell ya, fatigue and dehydration do not make good decisions.  And my decision in question:  material choice.   I know this.  I totally know this, yet in my mission to collect materials from my stash, I simply chose the first roller cover I saw rather than evaluating the best option.  And once I started priming, I immediately realized that I needed a much fluffier roller to get into all the seams and crannies.  This was taken after I’d primed to the best of my ability with significant pressure on the roller…


But then, my nemesis Fatigue and his weazily little toadie, Laziness, reared their ugly heads and said “Meh.  This roller’s already dirty anyways and how much extra time will it really take to just deal with it as is??”.   So, rather than switch rollers, I pressed on.  I ended up having to brush along every single seam and then roll in between numerous times with decent pressure to get thorough coverage.  How long did it take, you ask? Well…

It took me TWO HOURS to get this far…

 

 TWO. HOURS.
And I’m a fast painter.  Seriously, ya’ll.  It’s ALL in the materials you choose.  So, channel Indiana Jones and choose wisely.

Speaking of materials, one item that I strongly recommend you splurge on is your paintbrush.  I edge freehand using a 2 1/2″ angled brush by Wooster.  It’s my absolute favorite and totally worth the $14 (Not sponsored, just spreading the love).   I love how it holds the paint and leaves a crisp line…


This brush is also the best for edging the textured walls that are so prevalent here in the south.  I wrote a post with 11 tips for painting textured walls a while back, so check that out for more tips about that.  Anyways, I’ve found that edging well is all about…

1. Using a good brush,  and…

2.  Knowing how to load your brush.  This is something that you get the hang of with experience, but basically you want to load your brush with  enough paint to prevent individual bristles from separating (which leaves a “brushstrokey” edge), but not so much that it drips.   Keep in mind the plane that you’re working on and how gravity is pulling the paint.  I always load the brush more heavily when edging ceiling lines because it allows a crisper line up top and you don’t have to worry about drips marring your line as gravity takes over.  For baseboard lines, it’s the opposite.   I load it less because that’s where drips can affect your finished product.   And for horizontal lines like in the picture above, its somewhere in between.

Another tip that I love and bears repeating is this little gem that I picked up on Pinterest.


Line your tray with a plastic shopping bag to save on clean up.  I wrap the handles around the legs of the tray to keep it from slipping…


It works like a charm every time.

Anyways, back to priming.  I used Kilz Premium primer, mainly because I already had it on hand.   It’s mildew resistant and stain-blocking as well, so it was a good choice for this project.   Once I was done priming, the wall looked like this…


Priming not only evened out the playing field as far as undertones went, it also made areas that I’d missed when caulking obvious.   Like, this seam….


And nail holes….


So, I went back with white caulk and filled all those in.

The following day, I set about painting.   Luckily, our painter had left us a bunch of paint from when we had the exterior of the house painted.  It was Sherwin Williams Resilience in Loggia mixed at 25%.   Having learned my lesson with the roller cover the day before, I chose the puffiest roller I had which was meant for rough surfaces.  I rolled on a small section…

 
Perfect coverage with minimal effort.

This is when I beat my head against a metaphorical wall for an hour.  All the time I could’ve saved the day prior.  All the upper body strength sacrificed.   All because I opted to press on rather than take two minutes to change my roller cover.  Oy.  Lesson learned.

The same (if not more) amount of painting that I showed you in the priming picture..

…which had taken me two hours the day before, took me only 40 minutes this time around.  Seriously, I timed it.  The fluffier roller saved me from having to brush all the seams and repeatedly roll over the same area to get decent coverage like I had to with the smoother roller.    I know that the primer may have also helped time-wise, since it likely helped with the coverage of the paint, but still.   I ended up doing two coats of paint in pretty much the same amount of time it had taken me to prime one coat thanks to a change in materials.

So, anyways, when all was said and done, it looked like this…
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Crisp and clean and so wonderfully water resistant.  It’s like a breath of fresh air.   And now we can start focusing on fun things (hopefully… fingers crossed), like our breakfast nook chairs or starting our kitchen reno.   Woo hoo!  J

TDC Before and After
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Painting our rusty metal gate

Hey y’all!  So, I’m back with a how-I-did-it post about painting our metal gate.   As you can see here, it was not in the greatest shape…

It was faded, rusty, didn’t stay closed due to a broken latch, and one of the gate caps was broken…

Not so hot.  It basically sucked the life out of our curb appeal.  It’s amazing how a seemingly small element can do that.

Our first order of business was to find some gate cap replacements.  Apparently, both Home Depot and Lowe’s have discontinued sale of most of these items, but we were lucky enough to find some simple plastic black caps at Home Depot before they sold out…

Capture

I googled them as well and discovered that you can also order them online from several different retailers.   Once we had these on hand, I went about prepping the gate.  First, my trusty dad came over with a friend and welded the gate latch so that the gate would actually close (I took no pictures of this… sorry).

Then, I taped and protected the surrounding stucco and flooring around the gate with paper and got to brushing the rusty areas with a wire brush to loosen any rust particles and peeling paint…

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For the more stubborn peeling areas, I used various sizes of putty knives to scrape off the offending paint…

I apologize for my putty knife.  I have no excuse for (1) the fact that it’s gross or (2) that I chose to photograph it anyways.  Ha!  Sometimes I just get so involved in a project that I quickly snap progress pics, and then decide when I look back at my photos later that I must’ve temporarily lost all sense of vision.   In any case, despite it’s appearance, my unattractive well-loved putty knife was highly effective in removing the paint, which is the most important thing.

Once I was finished scraping, I moved on to using low grit sandpaper followed by high grit to try and further smooth the surface.   Honestly, the gate was in such bad shape in spots that I had no illusions of getting it smooth.  My goal was to simply get it slightly less wonky.

I wiped the gate clean with tack cloth and then it was time to attach my end caps…

(P.S. The above shot was actually taken before I started, so I definitely sanded down those paint drips and rough spots before painting) To attach the caps, I simply set them up there (as shown) and then tapped them into place with a rubber mallet.  It was a perfect fit.

Now, it was painting time.  Before beginning this project, I’d completed some research and found  that a good method for painting rusty outdoor metals was to apply a rust-inhibiting primer followed by an oil-based rust-inhibiting paint, so I went with Rustoleum brand products, which I found at Home Depot.  I primed my surface using this…

And no, I didn’t follow Rule #1 of Home Improvement 101: Wear Gloves.  And yes, this was another what-was-I-thinking shot that’s causing me embarrassment (rightnow).  And yes, I still chose to post it anyways.  Honesty.  It’s a virtue that I try impart on this blog if it means you might learn by my mistakes.  So, please, for the love of Lucy, don’t follow my lead.  Please wear gloves and protect your skin.   That is Recommendation #1 of things to do differently than me in this post.

To spray my primer, I simply kept the can about 10 inches from my surface and kept my arm moving the entire time, applying a light, even coat to all surfaces of the gate.  I held a large piece of cardboard behind the gate as I sprayed to limit the over-spray (hence the crazy amount of paint on my hand… I never claimed to have great aim). 😉

After the gate was primed, it looked like this…

Already a huge improvement, right???

Next, I used Rustoleum’s oil-based paint in gloss black…

I don’t have any pictures of the painting process because about a quarter of the way in it started to lightly drizzle.  I was literally hauling bootie to finish.  Fortunately, it was only a VERY light sprinkling of rain and it stopped quickly, but it put the crazy-woman-panic in me to where I was just trying to get ‘er done before the skies decided to open up again (which they didn’t).  Since I was using an oil-based paint, the water did nothing to the finish whatsoever, but really…. I consider myself lucky.   If it had rained any harder I may not be able to claim that.    So, Recommendation #2 of things to to differently than me in this post: Check the weather forecast before painting outdoor items.

As for how I applied the paint, I simply brushed it on with a paint brush and it worked like a charm.  I’ve never worked with oil-based paint before and, aside from the fumes, it was amazeballs.   It covered like a dream and smoothed right out leaving a glossy hard finish.

Like I mentioned before, I knew that our gate would never be completely smooth. You can see in this shot that there were areas where the metal was just too eaten away because of neglect over the years. Fortunately, these rough spots aren’t too noticeable unless you’re right on top of the gate inspecting it (or staring at a high resolution photograph.  Lol.).   We’ll eventually have to replace the gate, but in the meantime, hopefully priming/painting the metal has inhibited further rust damage enough to extend its life and make it look more presentable.

In any case, despite the bumpiness, it still looks way better than it did before with that rusty, decapitated gate cap.  This is the same post, but with the gate open…

I plan to add a second coat of paint to the gate eventually which will hopefully smooth out the surface more.  The coat that I did covered really, really well, so at the time, I didn’t feel like I needed a second, but we’ll see.  Added protection couldn’t hurt.

A shot of the gate before so you don’t have to scroll up…

And now…

You can see that the old/wrong front door was in when I started this project, and I’d already started painting the new/correct front door when I actually got around to taking “after” pictures.  I love seeing the evolution of things.

Here’s the other view from when we closed on the house…

That’s how the gate stayed for months since it didn’t lock.  After we moved in, the courtyard quickly turned into a weed-fest since that mulch that you see above was only applied in a very thin layer (probably just for showing the house).   Since then we’ve added layers of cardboard to smother the weeds, topped with decomposed granite.  And I’m happy to report that it’s so far, so good on the weed front.   We also had the house painted (which included that stucco wall).  Its a slightly darker color with more of a grey tone to it than before….

The courtyard is just so much neater. I have to say that I really like the simpler gate caps.   They really streamline the gate to make it feel slightly more modern.  And I love the crisp blackness.   It adds much needed contrast and sophistication to the courtyard.   Now to address those faded lanterns. Funny how making one thing look good, makes another look just awful.   So, we’ll be addressing those at some point soon.   Eventually we want to add a nice, stained wood wrap-around bench around the perimeter of the entire courtyard and maybe some pavers underfoot to give this space some additional function.  Eventually.  We’ll get there.  🙂

In any case, the courtyard is much more presentable now and I couldn’t be more thrilled.

TDC Before and After